Drive +Drive Belt
The driving power is transferred by the motor using a Poly v belt directly to the rear axle (Series I vehicles used a toothed, Gilmer belt). The tension of the belt is regulated by a two roller tensioner enclosing the driving pulley. Unfortunately there are difficulties again and again with this drive system, so that belt life is often short. The belt slips, then tracks toward the motor and mills itself to pieces. Often one hears noises before the belt is quite ruined, and there will be some cords hanging from the belt.
The belt is structured like a spiral with a common back. If the belt tears itself can one often the away-hanging pieces off cut, with a side cutter or a sharp knive. With the belt remainders one can possibly limp home.
Belt wheel (Drive Pulley)
With the belt drive there were some problems. The large belt wheel break, particularly in vehicles with more armature current (torque). There were the following variations on the belt wheels:
- Plastic wheel (series 1 toothed belt)
- Plastic wheel with resin filled (series 1 toothed belt)
- Sheet metal wheel
- Sheet metal wheel with stronger sheet metal
- Aluminum wheel with lateral bar (company: Comb)
- Aluminum wheel spherically (series since 97)
The original sheet metal wheel (type 3 above - RRY) distorts itself in itself and breaks by fatigue.
The dealer Joachim Comb solved this problem, together with me and a mechanical engineering company, and aluminum belt wheels was devloped.
The current status 97 factory-installed delivered belt wheels also have a lateral bar for belt guidance, but are also spherically turned and are likewise substantial - this is to now solve the problems. (If you break a drive pulley, I suggest you order one of these from the factory - RRY)
Driving belts change
Who has something experience in " screws ", can a driving belt change.
- Vehicle from the charger separate
- All consumers switch off
- Battery clamp and the middle and left battery remove.
- The washing water container, cables and hose (caution water) downward remove.
- The feather/spring of the black belt protection remove
- The two halves of the belt protection are fastened still with one tapping screw each in the carrying sheet metal, this quite hard to unscrew and the belt protection halves carefully remove - now one sees the whole thing.
- If the belt damages indicates can one it off completely cut. (side cutters) the idler has a socket-head cap screw, this in your fulcrum to remove and the idler completely remove
- The left wheel cover carefully take off and with tightened emergency brake the wheel nut (24mm) remove
- With the vehicle left reliably jacked up, emergency brake loosen, wheel take off, also the underlying spacer.
- The two screws (17mm) on the left and on the right from the brake core disk loosen and the brake core disk (backing plate)off the axle take. Often this goes not easily. The axle with something penetrating oil inject and from the rear with a wood knock very carefully. Do not use pullers at the brake core disk, or you'll break it. The brake core disk hangs now on the brake hose (support it somehow to relieve the stress on the hose)
- The belt can be put now over the axle and the belt wheels, so that one can read the inscription on the belt when standing on the left side of the vehicle
- Remounting of brake core disk and wheel - spacer do not forget
- The belt is situated now over the large and the small belt wheel, at the small belt wheel outside justified. Now that comes belt breakdowns, ideally is, if one is too second, alone geht's in addition. One needs for it a fastening clamp.
One holds now the idler by the engine and presses her to the belt. The fastening clamp comes with the round heading on the back of the idler, the lever of the fastening clamp supports itself on the idler off. Between idler and fastening clamp however absolutely an upholstery e.g. a thick rag must, so that the idler is not damaged! Another possibility is to support the idler direct at the engine e.g. with a bent ring spanner. - my favored solution -. in both cases one will see that one a very high voltage needs around the idler into the correct position to get. This is achieved if one the socket-head cap screw easily to pivot can.
or you could do it like this shows:
- Subsequently, now still the assembly of batteries, belt protection and washing water container follows.
- Wheel bolt again fixed?
- Who is quick can change a belt in 45 minutes.
Alternatively one can use also a special tool to belt breakdowns.
TIP: With the next belt change, thread a back-up belt on the rear axle, do not install it, just leaves fastened in place so that it doesn't touch any wearing parts.